Natural Perfume, Music and Embroidery this Trinity weave through my life. They support and give each other inspiration. It is my lifes work and profession. I think about Natural Perfume everyday. It is my reason d'etre. It brings joy, fulfills my soul. Creating beautiful perfumes from flowers, fruits and resins is superlunary. I am besotted, obsessed, deeply in love.

Thursday, 20 September 2007

up close and intimate with clary sage

I am making a deeper acquaintance with botanicals that I have been a little shy of.... liked them and have applied them but held off knowing them.....

So, Clary Sage....distillation from the plant Salvia Sclarea. As per lavender the flowers distilled alone give an oil richer in ethers than a whole plant distilled on the same day...

It is a middle to top note in perfumery with a high odor intensity and good fixative and can give 'green' nuances to blends. The aroma is warm and relaxing, but can also be heady and uplifting. A fine odour which some say reminiscent of a mixture of ambergris, musk, neroli and lavender. which certainly is detected in the body of the notes just before the drydown.

To help with a relaxing effect add cedarwood. It has incredible tenacity and the odour intensity still imparts warmth well over 24 hours... the aroma by then assimilates itself with lavender.. The initial impression when you first smell this sweetheart is fruity and dry, complex ,cognac like with notes of hay. After 15minutes tobaccoey notes emerge with a clean top end. Within 45 minutes one perceives a sweetness and a floral tea and still cognaccy with tobaccoey undertone....After an hour there is a warm cohesiveness to the notes that lingers on well into the next day..

The plant is robust and comely with downy leaves and tall flowered spikes. The crinkly and downy heart shaped leaves when touched has the sensation of crushed velvet. The flowers give off their bitter, musky and balsamic fragrance. In Germany, flowering tops and elderflowers were infused together with the liquid and added to Rhine wine to create the muscatel wine.

It is indispensable in the creation of ambers, chypres and in eau de colognes where it imparts its mellow sweetness and persistence which cannot be duplicated even with ambergris.

Monday, 17 September 2007


Its funny how I turn to autumn and winter and where during the summer months my spirit wants to enjoy intimacy with flowers , now darker days are approaching, I am wanting to encompass the rituals and resins of incense... purifying soul searching, spirit travelling incense......

I will be embracing these deep dark. sweet , resins and listen closely to their secrets....listening to help me bring their whisp-ers together in 'fume and joy..... in peaceful creativity....

Last winter I enjoyed whisp-ering with them and it shall be like reuniting with good friends and going on another journey together. Can't wait..

These fabulously sticky for the most part ancient resins have a story to themself and with masterful blending can be applied to create a haven of inspiration, insight and beauty to its surroundings... What I love about these sometimes rare materials is the wealth of study and reading that can accompany their aroma. This I find the most exciting and rewarding.. The smelling of them and getting to know them in diffierent moods takes me on new levels of discovery.