Crossroads

Crossroads
Originally uploaded by Amanda L McCracken

Tony Burfield at Cropwatch and his crew are coming to a crossroad. Please find below his letter to all of us.. do take the time to read it and respond if you can... you can reach the cropwatch team info@cropwatch.org. Also, The Natural Perfumers Guild is taking an active role with cropwatch in pursuing this important issue. Anya is working very closely with Tony and Cropwatch http://naturalperfumersguild.blogspot.com/

For my part a risk/ benefit studies programme would greatly enhance a fair and stable look at the natural aromatics today. In fact if there was a financing in this area this would help the big players in the industry realise that we (natural aromatics ) are not just puff and wind but real players .. making a serious contribution to these regulatory procedures and having a voice.
thanks Janita

Cropwatch Statement.

After 4 or 5 years of continuous activity, Cropwatch has some choices to make. Do we go on the way that we have been, snapping at the ankles of those who run & regulate the aroma industry so badly, or should we 'old dogs' learn some new tricks? Cropwatch supporters, and organisations sympathetic to our aims, regularly offer us donations and advise us of potential sources of grants, to which we have always said 'no thanks, we're non-financed'. Our current thinking is that this might be a mistake, since we are limiting our potential effectiveness. .

We are certainly not asking everyone for money, but we are asking you to help us with some feedback on how a financial input could potentially help the aroma world to become a better & fairer place, so please mail us if you have any thoughts or ideas.

Our initial list of ideas to use donated funding would be:

1. To finance risk/benefit studies on natural aromatic products. This research is needed because the existing major players such as IFRA/RIFM, are set up only to investigate the risks/hazards of fragrance ingredients (but not the benefits), & EFFA can only present the safety risks of essential oils, absolutes, resinoids etc in terms of the imagined hazards of the individual contained chemicals, rather than adopting a holistic approach for the aromatic ingredient as a whole. Therefore both organisations are badly positioned to defend natural aromatic ingredients against the current avalanche of restrictive legislation. The EU Commissioners have previously declined to accept safety-data based on risk/benefit considerations, although we believe this policy to be untenable in the long-term - it is the norm in virtually every other regulatory area (biocides, agricultural chemicals, pharmaceuticals etc).

[Neither is this just a European problem. The U.S. House Committee on Energy and Commerce have just announced draft legislation (Global Harmonisation Act 2008) intended to stimulate discussion on how to provide adequate funding and authority for the FDA to ensure the safety of the nation's food, drug, medical device and cosmetic supply in an increasingly globalised marketplace. The draft legislation already highlights several areas which will affect the fragrance industry].

2. To develop statistical data on the adverse effects of restricted & prohibited aromatic materials. This data would be a potential bombshell to blow apart the over-precautionary approaches of the cosmetic regulators and career toxicologists, who are in such a powerful position in global regulatory circles. Where this data exists (e.g. the Schnuch data on alleged allergens) it is already causing red faces. The EU Commissioner has previously indicated to Cropwatch (Brussels 2007) that this type of adverse reaction data is inadmissible as safety evidence. But if you are familiar with English history, you might recall that King Canute failed to hold back the waves and so his followers realised he was not all-powerful. So too, the regulators will not be able to ignore the fact that many restrictions on natural products are based on corporate toxicological constructs which don't manifest in the great numbers of negative health effects predicted.

3. To assist with the growing & production of useful commodities from threatened aromatic plants, for cosmetic, aromatherapeutic, flavour & medicinal outlets, in a way that benefits the poor.

4. To set up or help set up a natural aromatics products professional body, with the help of other interested parties. Already we can identify several sub-divided areas which badly need assistance: natural perfumery, the use of naturals within conventional perfumery, natural biocides, herbal drugs & medicines, aromatherapy, natural cosmetics etc.

5. The lobbying of officials & regulators. As we have seen, the more the establishment closes ranks (and its mind) to contrary & dissenting views, the more popular support we have been able to attract. In terms of numbers we are potentially a powerful force. However we have to ask ourselves whether there is any point in continuing the lobbying game. Many of the points we make go unanswered because the officials involved are not sufficiently technically adept or experienced to even understand the arguments put forward. So is it better to plough ahead with a voluntary regulatory system of our own making - at least we might have the experience, familiarity & resources to do a better job. The enormity of the task is detracting, but this is put more into perspective if sufficient funding were to be available.

6. To keep the flame of our traditional perfumery heritage alight. When we read that several major aroma corporations are training fledgling perfumers in pure synthetic perfumery, it makes us wonder if the world has gone quite mad. Once perfumers used to be creative artists with forthright temperaments, views and opinions, passionate about their art. Now, are we all to be reduced to company drones? I was related a story recently concerning a certain essential oils salesman who offered unmarked samples of real good quality Bulgarian lavender oil, and a synthetic lavender construct to a group of young perfumers at a certain megacorporation. The group preferred the artificial lavender construct because "it smelled like linalyl acetate, like its supposed to." Heaven help us! But maybe some of us 'old-timers' should organise courses & lectures to pass on the 'ancient knowledge of the art of perfumery' before it is lost forever.

OK, after 5 or so years of trying, we pretty much know what the problems facing us are - what we don't have is a consensus on the best way to solve them. Maybe you can help?

Cropwatch Team

My first tinctures of Spring ....Mahonia or Bluebells?

Mahonia Japonica
Originally uploaded by norwichrocks

Very hard decision. I threw open my windows to fresh air this afternoon, after receiving the first real welcomed warmth of spring sunshine. The most delicious perfume greeted and beckoned and drew me like a sirens song outside. Its creamy and honeyiest perfume is both alluring and beautiful..... I felt I wanted to tincture this .... which I shall asap.

My first priority was also to start the bluebells.... the sun had brought them out also under the canope of the woodland and the first of many thousands of the bluest flowers are beginning to open. My instincts are to begin in earnest and carry on from whence I experimented from last year....

I really was torn though and need some more jars so that I can do both... and I will...... Oh I love spring.

people see right through

Istanbul Market
Originally uploaded by ! ! JJJJJJJ

It is astounding how quickly the market turns on a dime.

It seems like yesterday that Natural Perfumery was endeavoring to make the Art of creating Natural Perfume known, reaching out to make itself heard. Now, before we know it, we have every Tom, Dick and Harry marketing themselves under this new banner, without any due care and attention, jumping on the band wagon and looking for the easy buck .

True artisans and gifted perfumers will quietly ride out the hoo hah and continue on the path knowing at some point the market will shift and change onto the next 'new' thing.

Natural Perfumery of course deserves the attention, as the artisan perfumers who are creating them .... but I giggle at business people whose hearts are not pure and just in it for the money.... they are just so transparent. ...people see right through.

no longer in the backwater

Originally uploaded by samuelbradley

I have just been musing on this last year. So much has happened in my world of natural perfumery.

When I first joined the group it was moving upwards to being a thousand members after five years I think One short year later and we are now fifteen hundred plus strong.

Same as the Guild when I was invited to join last year there were a few and since then so many illustrious fellowes have come together to help put Natural Perfumery on the Global map.

Natural Perfumery is no longer in the backwater it is being taken seriously accross the globe. I am delighted to be part of it .. at the start of it all those years ago here in the UK thinking I was one of the only people .... then along came Anya McCoy with the Guild and founder Mandy Aftel who have both contributed much in lifting the cobwebs of this most precious of Arts....

I am moving forward .... continue to source excellent ingredients and busy putting my new website together ... my old one is still up http://www.hayspace.co.uk/
and will be there until I go live with the new one. I will not be rushed as I have many committments at present and it will be finished when it is done... I am eager to get it out to you but at the same time I cannot just throw it together...

Of course the next really exciting news is that The Guild has joined the Blogging and is out there which is fantastic.....here is the url for anyone who wishes to go and take a look at all the wonderful things that the members will be getting up to now and it will be constantly updated by Anya's assistant Gisele.

http://naturalperfumersguild.blogspot.com/

the word 'natural'

Antique Essential Oil Bottles
Originally uploaded by mollycakes

With all the focus on organic and natural products which is getting enormous press and the boom that has surrounded it, legislation has decided that they want to analise the word 'natural' and omit substances like concretes and absolutes as they have small amounts of hexane left after distillation. This is a tiny tiny infinatesimal proportion.

If this went ahead it could cause considerable difficulties to many natural perfumers who like to separate themselves from other perfumers who use synthetic molecules in their pallette, by using 'natural' preceding perfumer, as well as marketing their perfumes in the same way again to separate and identify themselves in a large marketplace.

Both Anya and Steve Earl have been astute in jumping in to communication and energetically trying to resolve this potentially sticky situation. Tony Burfield from Cropwatch is also active in this.
To see Anya's blog on this just click here
http://www.anyasgarden.blogspot.com/2008/04/defining-word-natural.html

Also this morning browsing through I came accross this with some thoughts on this subject... click here.

http://www.perfumerflavorist.com/newsletter/17198966.html

Natural to me signifies botanical essences that are derived, not from man, but found naturally in the world about us.... the residue from the hexane in concretes and absolutes is infinatesimal. It would be good to come to an appropriate workable solution to this query.

Natural has come along way.

around the world in 80 gardens

Huangshan, China (YELLOW MOUNTAIN/LANDSCAPE) VIII
Originally uploaded by Chi King

I watched an absorbing programmed by Monty Don entitled around the world in 80 gardens and am hooked.

The one I saw was china and japanese gardens and what influenced them. Monty went deeply into what inspired these gardens and why in China.. searching within himself as to their meaning. Beautiful footage as he wandered through these ancient and very beautiful gardens.

When he visited the Yellow Mountains in China alot was revealed and the way spoke to him ... So that when he went to Japan afterwards he was able to absorb and reflect the beauty of the zen garden in the city and appreciate why they were designed in that way.

If you live in the UK you are in for a treat.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nb27velJB-8

Here is Monty talking about the book and programme.... enjoy

drops in drops

drops in drops by steve took it

So much is going on I really didn't know what photo to upload then I came accross this one and it sums up my feelings with all the news that has happened recently.

Some fantastic new members have joined the Guild and more news coming from Anya at some point Click on the urls to take you there.....http://anyasgarden.blogspot.com/ Scroll down after great review of anyas perfumes to the next one to see the new members. Plus Anya has created a lovely piece about the story of Ascent between Rohanna and myself... which is just below that one.
Equipment for the project has arrived (well some) which has enabled me to start the project rolling.... getting closer to trying the small experimental piece . http://www.flowersofmyddfaiproject.blogspot.com/ Finally, beginning work on the website, complimentary slips, logo which is copyrighted now for my business and finishing off a perfume commission 'kite' that has been with me for over a year now .... and at last is in the diluting, filtering and packaging phase.... yay.. samples to get out and boxes of soap , perfume to prepare for May and textile pieces.... yowza panicking a bit when I read back ... but I will do what I can... and enjoy the whole process.

Looking out for more equipment for the lab and trying to get out into the bedraggled garden to finish pruning...

So drops in drops indeed... *:-D