Natural Perfume, Music and Embroidery this Trinity weave through my life. They support and give each other inspiration. It is my lifes work and profession. I think about Natural Perfume everyday. It is my reason d'etre. It brings joy, fulfills my soul. Creating beautiful perfumes from flowers, fruits and resins is superlunary. I am besotted, obsessed, deeply in love.

Tuesday, 13 February 2007

cropwatch vote re-opened IS IT FAIR GAME



Dear Friends..... I really can't believe what I am reading!!!! Is this acceptable behaviour......is this ethically correct? Does anyone have a grip on the official and correct procedure about re-oponing a poll that had already closed......??? What is the legislative procedure..... does this allow for re-voting????
THIS ARRIVED THIS MORNING.............

14.2.07 After consultation with various people seeing as this is an not technically an official poll..... they can do what they like......fair enough.... the vote has been carried over but it is not adviseable to revote.... but pass the word that it is still going and get others to vote for this important issue.... thanks so much janita



Cropwatch vs. IFRA: A Note from the Editor[February 12, 2007]

Our mission at P&F magazine, the P&Fnow newsletter and http://www.perfumerflavorist.com/ is to provide a venue for the latest news, research and ideas in the flavor and fragrance industry. We seek neither to inflate the position of nor act as an advocate for any particular industry interests. Few topics have more keenly required our forum or been more controversial than the recent Cropwatch boycott of IFRA’s 40th Amendment to its Code of Practice. We’ve reported each step of the story as it has it has unfolded and recently posted an unscientific online poll. While the results of that poll have skewed heavily toward the Cropwatch point of view, we’ve received many passionate e-mails in support of both positions. We do not intend to misrepresent the attitude of the industry as a whole, but rather seek to take the temperature of our readers. With that in mind, we will keep the poll voting open until March 5, after which we will report the new results in P&Fnow (subscribe here). Vote now on our homepage! And we will continue to cover this story as it unfolds, reporting the various facts and divergent positions as accurately as is possible. We thank all of our readers for making P&F a dynamic, if sometimes contentious, industry platform. As always, we welcome your feedback at http://uk.f267.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Compose?To=jallured@allured.com. Best regards, Jeb Gleason-Allured Editor

Thursday, 1 February 2007

Muhuhu



"Muhuhu is a hard to find essential oil that is used as a base note, similar to Sandalwood, Amyris and Tolu Balsam. It has an interesting Oud-like aroma on dry-out" This is Eden Botanicals description of the oil. I have sent some to the group as a sample. Mine was a gift from a supplier here in the UK and is now 12 years old and it is deep, deep, deep.

I have been smelling both. Muhuhu is black and dark ......sandalwood lighter and sweet spicy almost in comparison.... I combined muhuhu and hyraceum and they got on very well together, cavernous and dark...............it will be interesting to see how they dry down together.

The gardens contacted me today and I will travel in latish spring and visit Kristina in the Apothecary gardens. I should by then have a few trial sampled pieces of the needle to show. I put a downpayment on a new sewing machine that will be coping with all the layering of threads I intend to do. I need speed as well as precision.. I spent months last year researching which would be right for how I work..... I think I have chosen wisely.... I will travel accross at some point and have a trial run with it.... see how she runs....

Back to read White Lotus aromatics 'fragrant harvest' newsletter 1st installment on Grasse and continue enjoying and familiarising with the samples and new notes to play with .......

Wednesday, 31 January 2007

an intriguing discovery


preparing some natural dyes today ..... I thought I would use some dried hibiscus petals. Placing them in bowl I was taken by the fruitiness of its odour.

I have enjoyed Hibiscus tea. The petals give up to various colours of soft antique rose shades and deeper depending....and this fruity perfume.

I have tinctured a small amount in a 15ml bottle with alcohol and will change petals (if I can get them out :-)) when needed and see if this fruitiness can be captured.

formulations

I have lots to do and rather than try to restrict myself in order of a list . I will try and flow.

reformulating kite is one I am looking forward to sitting and working with that, mordanting in prep for natural dyeing, embroidery testers and anything else.. will write more later.

Sunday, 28 January 2007

Fifi LaRue and her bootleg balancing act..

I found this Robilee Mcintyre after contemplating further the Prohibition Era and what is happening with the IFRA and 40th amendment.

It seems to be that when governments try to impose over-regulated laws, citizens rise up and challenge authority.

Flexibility and reason is the key, we do not want to become a society like George Orwells 1984..... where everyone is frightened to move because of Big Brother. There surely must be a way for which safety and creative endeavor can walk peaceably together. I think one of the natural perfumery group members put it beautifully, describing in a nutshell, if we do not take a step back we will be living in a plastic bubble..too frightened to come in contact with anything... I certainly do not want to end up in a Michael Frayn's ' A very private life' ...... it is all about communication based on intelligent interaction and balance.

Wednesday, 24 January 2007

Ingredients IFRA and the 40th amendment


Pear Snaps
Originally uploaded by maasha.

Dear Perfumistas

This could affect everyone in this community naturals or synths... please take the time to read and vote for Tony at Cropwatch. Your vote is important....... and let us take a stand for balanced reason . Listed below is first the vote then IFRAs response to cropwatch and finally the 40th amendment

http://www.perfumerflavorist.com/

http://tinyurl.com/2vgoy6

http://www.ifraorg.org/News.asp?Sel=8

I am glad to be a member of the natural perfumery community group..... this is what I said...

' Today, now more than ever ......Artisans are springing up intent to uphold the past traditions of excellence that has been laid down before us..... For example: the Art world has conservationists who study and learn the ways of the old masters so that when a priceless painting needs repair they use the same methods and materials to complete the restoration to exacting standard.....The same goes for listed building.... Cathedral restoration ...Textiles, restoring a piece of the Bayeux they don't use modern dyed threads but traditionally naturally dyed threads so that it is seamless. Artisans don't just use modern techniques and materials they use the knowledge of the best materials and available knowledge of the past because they know it is quality..... that speaks for itself .... these are the standards IFRA need to look at ..... respect and attention to past perfumers and how they approached their work.alongside the best of the present....When that fabulous age of perfumery came was there any IFRA then? Was there any need? Did anyone suffer ? Maybe.... we may not know..... but because of this age of communication everything is thrown under the microscope..... We are exceptionally lucky inasmuch modern technology has given a pallette of raw material that far exceeds what the past had......as well as our understanding..... because of this and scientific breakdowns of molecular structures of oils good and bad , we have to somehow find a way to embrace the old and new traditions of excellence .....It may not be easy ...but, if there is a will there is a way.......'

Monday, 22 January 2007

Threads and woodruff

I Have continued thoughts and plans and samples on the machine. I am still unsure of the background colouration and what weight of threads to use. I am playing with a red background today and applied the beginnings of Galium odoratum (woodruff) ... fragrant flowered herb with whorls of lanceolate leaves and creamy star shape flowers. Interesting to note is that several species of this plant are used to curdle milk in cheese-making. I am using a heavier weight cotton and threads and am unsure at present how it shall develop. I liked the way I did the digitalis sampler that is on the NP group photos but I feel I need to explore fully different techniques until something clicks. These samples are all work in progress and will define the movement of the project.

Finally back on internet so can catch up with NP group and continue working on this so I can post it up.

Havn't felt like blending today although I still think about it and work things out in my head. There is a dusting of snow on the mountains and a cold north wind....brrrr.